Bra fitting help » Cups too separated, top of cups scooching down
Panache » Envy Balconnet Bra (7285) » 30D 30:4
Issue resolved
This is now my PMS bra, fits much better with bigger boobs (though the band stretches too much so I'll have to shorten it)
Original problem
The cups are too separated and the wires come up over IMF. The lace collapses down and outward like it's too big but when I pull it together and up it seems perfect. Almost like my upper chest is pushing the lace away. When I support my breasts or lean forward they're quite center full but you'd never know it from this bra.
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Suggestions (4)
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helpfulGiven that I am of similar measurements to you, I would say that a 28 inch band has done quite a bit for me in terms of helping my breast tissue fill the cup rather than disperse elsewhere. A swoop and scoop with a 30 inch band lasts until I move my arms while a swoop and scoop with a smaller band stays put. Who knew I had cleavage!
With wire pain, I have found that there can be a number of problems that contribute to that for me.
1. The band is too big which for some reason causes rib and sternum pain. Maybe the wires frictioning over my bones. Solution - I shorten the band.
2. The wire is too high. Solution - I replace the wire with shorter ones.
3. The wires are too stiff. Solution - I replace the wires with softer ones.
I have a narrow frame similar to yours and generally find that balconettes run too wide for my frame - Straps and edge of bra hanging out on the periphery of my shoulders and torso and is more prone to having that sternal gap. Plunges tend to be a better fit and flatter my proportions better.
Overall, it is not an awful fit, and if you have to keep it, you could do some alterations to improve the fit and comfort level. Otherwise, you have some information to consider when making your next bra selection.
Good luck in your bra journey!
Updated on May 18, 2024 Flag this
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1
helpfulGiven that I am of similar measurements to you, I would say that a 28 inch band has done quite a bit for me in terms of helping my breast tissue fill the cup rather than disperse elsewhere. A swoop and scoop with a 30 inch band lasts until I move my arms while a swoop and scoop with a smaller band stays put. Who knew I had cleavage!
With wire pain, I have found that there can be a number of problems that contribute to that for me.
1. The band is too big which for some reason causes rib and sternum pain. Maybe the wires frictioning over my bones. Solution - I shorten the band.
2. The wire is too high. Solution - I replace the wire with shorter ones.
3. The wires are too stiff. Solution - I replace the wires with softer ones.
I have a narrow frame similar to yours and generally find that balconettes run too wide for my frame - Straps and edge of bra hanging out on the periphery of my shoulders and torso and is more prone to having that sternal gap. Plunges tend to be a better fit and flatter my proportions better.
Overall, it is not an awful fit, and if you have to keep it, you could do some alterations to improve the fit and comfort level. Otherwise, you have some information to consider when making your next bra selection.
Good luck in your bra journey!
Updated on May 18, 2024 Flag this
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helpfulThis is also a shape mismatch (cups too projected), plus the cups are a bit too big. Panache Envy and Jasmine are both quite projected models. Have you tried 30D in other brands that offer shallower cups with average projection? I am not in expert in your size range, but some ideas are B.tempt'd By Wacoal, Gossard, Chantelle, Le Mystere, and maybe Fantasie.
Updated on May 15, 2024 Flag this
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I appreciate your reply. Yes I've tried 30C and D in shallower cups, they squish me out and cut me off at the top, giving me quad boob. I agree that these cups seem too big (at least on top), but as far as projection goes, it's like I'm projected at the bottom but my roots are shallow and tall (almost to my collar bone) if that makes sense? Idk if that's a thing or if there's different terminology for that. So from the side (with no bra) I'm like:
.. \
..... \
.........\
...........\ͺ
.............⟩
.,__,◞ '
(I hope that makes sense, it's hard to draw with punctuation, I had to fill in with periods because spaces didn't show up)
And when I do the lean test I look FOT and center full, which is totally the opposite of when I'm upright and look FOB. So when I try a shallower bra, all that fullness on the bottom just gets pushed up and over the top and center. It's so frustrating and confusing!
I keep getting recommended the B.tempt.d balconette so I guess I should just try it. I feel like it's going to give me quad boob again, but I definitely don't know what I'm talking about at this point lol.So thank you for the recommendations, I'll take another look at those brands :)
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I don't think you need super-shallow cups, just not projected. It's also possible to find bras of average / shallower projection that can accommodate the fact that you're FOT. Looking at old reddit posts, some possibilities might be Gossard Superboost Lace Plunge Bra (7711), Gossard Glossies Moulded Bra (6271), Wacoal Awareness Full Figure Seamless (85567), Fantasie Rebecca Spacer Moulded Bra (2024), Freya Expression Plunge Bra (5491), Lepel Fiore Balcony Bra (93208), and Cleo Koko Moulded Plunge Bra (9176).
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Ahh gotcha that makes sense, thank you so much!
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Have you tried Chantelle brand or wacoal? I had some of the same issues as you until I tried this brand. I also thought molded cup bras weren't for me until I tried Chantelle c jolie. That thing fit me like a glove.
I highly recommend ordering Chantelle C jolie T shirt bra and giving it a chance. If you're a 28D in Freya you'll probably need a 28DD in Chantelle or maybe even a 30D.
If you have a belk near you, I do know that Belk carries wacoal perfect primer in store which is also a really great bra for me.
**Chantelle does have a good bit of stretch compared to other brands I've tried but not enough to size up in. Just enough to be soft and comfortable. You could definitely size up (which is actually down a number) but it's not necessary. If you can go to a bra store, I do recommend that even if it's Nordstrom. I wouldn't get a fitters help because not all Nordstrom fitters have the knowledge needed to fit folks. Just grab 1 bra in 5 different sizes and see what works and then grab a different bra in multiple sizes and so on. I don't recommend trying multiple bras at once. Just 1 in different sizes so you can get whatever fits and compare it to the next size that fits, and so on. Eventually you'll have a handful of bras that fit you well and then you can compare the bras you've narrowed down to. Rive gauche may also be a good fit for you**
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I have heard of wacoal and seen it recommended but haven't tried any yet, and I've never heard of Chantelle I don't think. I'm online shopping only so I'll see what I can find. Thank you for the recommendations!
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If the bras Are yours and you haven't sent back, you can also try bending the wires. Some women can never find the perfect bra and have to do this to bras in order for them to actually fit. Wires can always be replaced as well. If you find a really good seamstress there's no reason they wouldn't be able to fit bras to fit you perfectly. Whether it's a few tacks or replacing an underwire adding length or even making the cups a bit deeper, they can do it.
Have you tried comexim?
If you search specific bras, you can measure your breasts width where the wires need to be by bending some tin foil under your breast and placing it perfectly where the lines of your boob is, and then measure the width of the foil at the widest point. Then for the depth, you can use a wash rag old shirt or whatever place a corner center underneath your breast, all the way to the top of your breast. That's the depth you'll need after getting the measurement. To be safe, I'd subtract 2/8 of an inch since to give you some wiggle room for searching bra measurements. Idk if this makes sense, if it doesn't there's YouTube videos on how to measure what width and depth you need that may be easier to follow
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I've been considering trying to bend the wires, I'm afraid I'll ruin them! I didn't consider the possibility of replacing wires. I'm absolutely open to doing alterations myself, I did some tacking on my Jasmine and it definitely helped.
I haven't tried comexim, so far just panache, freya, and natori (which was a definite no)
That tin foil and rag thing is such a good idea, I'm totally trying that!
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helpfulAlso the wires look like they are too wide.
Updated on May 18, 2024 Flag this
Wow thank you, that is a lot of very helpful info. I will do some alterations on this one because I do like it and it’s too late to return it, and I’ll check out some plunges too