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Bra fitting help » Too tight, or not? Cup too big?


Ewa Michalak » Pl Onyks (196) » 75JJ 34:14

Issue resolved

When I got this bra first, it seemed to big at the sides, and slightly too small in the middle. After wearing better bras for a while, my breasts seem to have gotten bigger at the sides and top. I put this down to breast migration, since I've also lost weight. So, now this cup is actually a bit on the small side, I think, maybe. I don't like the shape, though: It seems like the cups "collapse" under the weight of my breasts, so there is hardly any lift :(

Original problem

After having returned some 80H's with too big bands, and too small cups, I ordered two 75JJ's.

Band: I fear it may be too tight. It was uncomfortable with the wires at the side of my ribcage, so I followed "Bras I Hate"-blog's advice on bending wires to fit shape, and it was a massive improvement. But it may still be too tight, as the clasps seem to have pulled a bit out? Yet I am perfectly able to pull it out a good bit without much resistance.
I was surprised to see that this bra measured 70cm/27.6" un-stretched, and 99cm/39" stretched. I am not 100% sure of my underbust measurement: I am very "squishy", so my tightest measurement is 70cm/27.6" and if I just put the tape around me, I measure 93cm/36.6". This makes it seem like this bra should be a perfect for me!
I have noticed that quite often, bras seem much tighter in the front than in the back for me, as also proven by the fact that I get marks in the front, but none in the back: I think this is because I have a roll just under my bra, so if I slouch in the couch, the wires are squished between my breasts and that roll. It is not comfortable, and I wonder what could be done? I have wanted a long-line to smoothe out said roll, but should I really go for less fabric at the bottom of the bra to avoid this?
Another issue I have with bras in general, and this one too, is that the bottom seam seems much tighter than the top seam of the band, this the bottom seam seems to carry the entire weight. Is this a fit-issue, or just how bras are made?

Cup: Based on the 80H's, myself and people of bratabase figured it was 2 cups too small, but I think that may have been too much: I have taken 2 pics of the gaping with straps loosened appropriately - one pic I am just slightly hunching my shoulder, and you can see a slight shadow from gaping, and on the other pic I am pulling out a lot in the bra (so there isn't actually that much space, but just showing that there could easily had been a bigger breast there!). On the other pics the straps are tightened to close the gaping: On the pic where I am lifting my arms, I get much of the desired shape (and a lot of cleavage), but other than that, it seems like my breasts look extremely heavy, and the bra seems to not be able to 'stand up' against the weight. Is this also due to the cups being a bit too big?
From the side view, you can also see that the top-panel which I assume is supposed to sit on the front of the boob, is more like on the top of my boob, like a lid, really, making it flatter there, and giving a pointy-shape where it bends inwards at the seam. I assume this is also due to wrong size?
(My bust measures about 125cm/49", but w/o accurate underbust measurement, that's hardly usefull)

I am still in the desperate search of my correct size, so any help is appreciated!

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