Bra size knowledge frustration...
Argh.
I ordered a top (from etsy seller) which is custom made and sent them my overbust and underbust measurement.
Now they contacted me and asked my cup size. They have only "a-cup", "b-cup", "c-cup" and "d-cup" options in thei pages, without any band sizes!!! I tried to explain my measurements again in a message, but I don´t know... Let´s hope this works!!!
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This is actually quite typical for 'garment sewing': those 'A', 'B', 'C', and 'D cups' do not correspond to bra cup sizing at all and should in that sense be taken with a grain of salt. The reason for this discrepancy is that traditionally underbust measurements rarely play a part in garment design as most garments don't have a defined underbust anyway, but instead a smoothly sweeping line from waist to apex, the exceptions obviously being empire and 'cupped' styles.
In order to find your 'garment sewing' cup size you measure your overbust Victoria's Secret-style (high under the arms and OVER the bust, snug, but not too tightly) and subtract this from your full bust measurement (preferably wearing the bra you plan to wear with the garment). Usually, no difference between these measurement equals a 'B-cup' and then you just count up (and down) from there one inch per cup size at the time.
This is not to say that these four 'garment sewing' cup sizes cover all possible bra cup sizes -- they really really don't and I am perfectly aware of that -- but rather how they should be read and interpreted. They are a bit of a relic of the past and somewhat indicative of how the whole cup size system came into being, I think, not of the way proper modern full-bust bras are designed and intended to be worn. Also, the measuring method does not work for everybody -- women with very tall, very high-set, very FoT, and/or otherwise simply very voluminous breasts might have difficulty taking their overbust measurement in a way that yields sensible results. Also, the method does not account for upper torso length, apex position, posture, particularly wide or narrow shoulders, or other body shape peculiarities.
This is also not to say that people who use this 'garment sewing' system are not genuinely clueless about proper bra sizing -- many unfortunately are -- but rather that these are two different systems. For an example as to how the two systems yield different figures: at the moment I wear a 30E/F bra (my measurements would put me around a 28F/FF), but in garment sewing terms I would be between a 'C' and a 'D cup' or something.
Just for completion: if you sew yourself, you chose your pattern size according to your overbust measurement and use the difference between overbust and full bust measurement to determine the amount you need to add in a full bust bust alteration/adjustment (FBA). The reason for this is that using your overbust measurement will get you closer to something that fits properly in the shoulders than your full bust measurement will. You then add (or subtract) the difference where it's actually needed -- in the front only, obviously! -- instead going with a larger (or smaller) size that would spread it all around the torso.
That's interesting, MilkAndHoney!
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