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What a difference a gore makes...
So, following up T_maia's suggestion on replacing the underwires on my 32H cleo lucy with those of a 32gg cleo lizzie, I was on my way to make my very first Frankenbra.
I have grown to hate my pink Lucy because of the strechy band, too separate cups for my boobs and cutting in on the top edge even though It had empty space at the bottom and the sides of a cup.
First things first - I had to alter the center gore because the cups on lizzie were much closer together and the frankenbra wouldnt work unless I did this.
I sowed it up as far as it went and tried it on and...
The results were unbelievable.
Taking in the gore changed the WHOLE cup construction.
- it angled the cups in a way that I get more room at the top - no cutting in, no quadboob
- it angled the wires - the cup doesnt come up too high under arm anymore and the wires doesn't poke
- it pulled the wires more to the front - wires are no longer too wide, no empty space on the sides
- I dont know what else it did, but I dont have even the empty space on the bottom of the cup
And the shape is AMAIZIG!!! - It's the perfectly round, projection is ideal - the shape is much more uprfront than before and it somehow still manages to hold my breasts closer to my body.
Even the band feels tighter - I took all of the lucys gore in so the difference is quite big.
There is a BUT.
My boobs are so close set that two paralel wires dont fit between them even if they are as close as can be. What happens is that my left boob actually pushes her wire out, so the wires are actually overlaping - they sit one in front of the other in the center. My boobs have room for only one wire between them so they made it work. Comfort level needs getting used to though.
The other thing is the straps - and it's the thing I dont get.
I feel like 3 times more pressure than before is on my soulders. It's not really logical to me as the band is much tighter now. It still rides up a bit but not as much. Loosening up the straps relieves a bit of the pressure but compromises the shape - the boobs arent held as close to my body as I'd like.
Why is this happening?
Do I take in the band more? I hate the lucy band and would like to replace it alltogether but I've never seen it done and don't know if it's even possible.
3 comments
Instead of taking in the band, you could sew in non-elastic fabric on parts of the band. This makes it stretch less.
That the shoulder straps hurt you now might be bc they are now in a different position. Your body needs to get used to having shoulder straps in that particular place.
BTW, if your boobs are that close together that no matter what you do the center gore can never sit flat, try Krisline bras. They are constructed specifically in such a way that the centergore is designed to float.
When you put a dart in the center gore you have to make sure before you stitch it together that the wires still have a curve to them in the center area. I've made this mistake myself a few times with the wires overlapping one another. I kept the dart too straight including at the very top. When you put this dart in, because the cups change shape, so do the straps and their positioning. Try loosening them. It's not a matter of just getting used to it because this can cause further damage and pain. You mention the cups are not held as close...normally, without the dart, when you have to tighten the straps so much to make the cups fit close this is a sign the cup is too large, because you're taking the slack out of the too large cup by tightening the straps.
My suggestion would be to adjust the dart a bit less exaggerated and see how everything fits. You may have just overdone it.
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