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Bra fitting help » 40’s Fail. Need spaced out retro style.

Bali » Classic Support (0180) » 32DD 32:5

Clearly this is not the bra for me, so how do I find a 40’s retro silhouette for my shape? How can a bra feel tight at the wings and be loose and wrinkled in the cup at the same time? I just learned what a Tail of Spence was, and I think I have a thicker one. I suspect I need cups that are spaced wider apart. My Victoria’s Secret DD cups are on the verge of being too small, so what I try next depends on the manufacturers.
How on earth do I even know which bras have that separated, pointier 40’s shape, especially with cups spaced further apart? (Not going full bullet here, but more that direction than my round T-shirt bras.)

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