Bra fitting help » Fabric folds, wire pushed down
Let me start by saying this bra’s band is too loose - I have tried around 15 bras now in both 32, 34 and 36. 32 is too tight in this brand, and 36 is too loose. Which leaves 34. (Going to point out that going down a band size helps the issue a bit, but doesn’t make it disappear).
My biggest issue with this bra has been the folding fabric in the bottom and the wire. When I take the side wing and front and put it where it should be (where my IMF is) it lifts the bra about an inch from where it sits normally, but it DOES NOT STAY THERE. The underwire is way up in my armpit but it does eliminate a lot of the folded fabric and space at the side (mostly it seems to bunch it together, my breast isn’t filling it out). When I then move my arm it pushes the underwire down to a place where it only pokes a little - But that also pushes the whole bra down that inch where it then rests too far down, which makes the problem look worse.
The cup seems pretty okay, it actually gets super close to tacking complete (the best I’ve tried is Primadonna Delight in 34FF which tacks completely but also have the fabric issue, not as pronounced as this bra though). I’m very close at the top, sort of a V from my view, where the breasts start. But I can’t fill out the bottom of the cup even though it looks like my breasts lie close at the top.
Pushing my breast down into the cup fixes the fabric issue but almost immediately it gets pushed upwards again leaving the fabric unfilled.
I have also noticed I can put 1 finger in the fold at the side, like the is 1 finger width between the underwire and my breast tissue. I don’t know if perhaps it means I need a wire that is more narrow.
I should probably say English isn’t my first language, so if there’s any confusion to my description do ask me to clear it up.
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Hi there, DeathZhade !
It sounds like this bra’s wires are much too wide, and likely too shallow for you as well. The wrinkling in the bottom of the cup is often caused by the bra not having enough immediate projection for you at the wire, which pushes you out of the bottom of the cup to a spot with more room for you. This can have the effect of making the band feel much tighter than it would otherwise, so it’s also possible that with a more projected cup and narrower wire you would find a smaller band size works better for you as well. I’d recommend trying a bra with more immediate projection and narrower wires, factoring in that you may also need to try both the current and slightly smaller band sizes.
Updated on December 5, 2019 Flag this
Given your measurements, in regards to the band, a 32 inch or a 34 inch will fit but it will depend on how the band itself stretches out. Getting an idea of the stretched out band measurement will help you out more than focusing on the 32 or 34 sizing. It is also hard to get a good idea of the band fit if the cups are too small. Folks here have encouraged others to trying the bra (on upside down?) - in a way to remove the effect of the cups to get a better picture of what band is supportive for you.
I do agree that the cups look too wide with definitely not enough projection at the wire - too small cups. A bra with the cups more front and center would be great. There are folks here who strongly support narrow width cups and lots of projection so the brands do exist!
Updated on December 5, 2019 Flag this
DeathZhade , I am excited to see your reviews of the new bras your ordered, hopefully you get some good ones! I wanted to mention a couple other things. Eaele and jazzypants hit the main points I had been wondering about when I suggested that you post a fit request. I will be curious to hear the result when you try on the bra upside down, for you to check the band fit. I know you mention that the band seems loose, and it looks in the photo like it is riding up, and not staying horizontal with the ground, and in line with the cups. The band is doing the vast amount of support for you, so I think you want to keep investigating to find bands that fit you well. I have met people who find wearing bands that fit uncomfortable at first, because they can feel a little snug, and many of us were used to wearing extremely loose bands. The other thing that I notice in the picture is that the bra you are wearing seems to have too wide of a gore for you, and at the top it appears to be on top of your breast tissue. I have very close set breasts, and over the years struggled with this problem, but have finally started finding bras with narrow gores and it is great. As you look at bra measurements on the site to investigate ones that you might like to try, I suggest looking at the cup separation measurement as well, I have found that bras that fit me well usually have a separation of .7 inch, for example. As you start finding things that work well for you, you will know what to look for in other bras. Also, your English is fantastic, I would not have guessed that it isn't your first language
Updated on December 6, 2019 Flag this
DeathZhade I'm always excited to see people trying Prima Donna, they no longer fit me as well due to size changes but I loved the quality! Please excuse the novel-length level of detail below... as the saying goes, I didn't have time to make it shorter But I hope some of this may be useful!
I'm guessing you are somewhere in Northern Europe (?) based on the bras you have entered so far and also based on your excellent English. You should see what passes for "fluent" in English in the country where I grew up (France)… (If you now say you are French or francophone Belgian/Swiss I will be super impressed haha!)
A few quick observations--
1/ I believe I saw in passing that you said Madison was one of your favorites when you were at a lower body weight. Shape changes with breast size/body composition changes. Out of all their perennial designs, the Deauville is PD's deepest-fitting underwired model with the most room for center fullness, so if Deauville is now a good fit for you (as it was for me... loved it!!) this suggests that Madison and many other PD classic full cups will tend to be just a little bit too closed-in or shallow for you at the cup edge. You may have acquired more breast height or center fullness due to recent body changes. If you love a particular bra you can often solve this design incompatibility by going up 1 cup size; it may be a bit roomy/high coverage but will tack much better. However PD has a very large selection so it might be better to just look for designs that are perfectly compatible!
2/ Prima Donna wires are fairly average width in your size range but their softness means they are quite easily distorted (see point 3 for possible reasons for this). A too-wide wire can be a problem if the brand uses hard, rigid wires that will hurt and that prevent the cup from "bending" around you, but frankly with this brand I did not find it to be a big problem. Full cups are also more forgiving of imprecise cup width in general. I would not worry about wire width per se in this case.
3/I'm actually not sure that this band is too big for you... it's possible but Prima Donna tends to fit firmly in the band as their fabrics are high-quality and don't stretch far when worn. The ride-up at the back may be due to a common fit habit i.e. tightening straps a bit too much. If this is still adjusted as it was in the shop by the saleswoman, bear in mind that most bra sales staff seem to have a real passion for tightening straps to the max, probably because this creates the impression of wonderful lift.. and also because it's not their own shoulders they are massacring lol). To properly assess the band, in addition to the upside-down try-on, check the strap adjustment and loosen them as far as they will go (or as far as they can go without falling off!)
A too-tight or too-short strap forcibly pulls the band up at the back, making it both seem too big (due to the non-secured position) yet also feel oddly tight, and distorts the wires too. I distinctly hate a tight strap so overtightening is not a habit I ever acquired, but I remember when I wore PD bras, since they tended to be a bit closed/shallow at the cup top for me in most models (as I noted above) and tacked "softly" rather than properly, I was often tempted to overtighten straps to give me a more secure lift!
For future reference if you need to look for clues that this strap problem is happening and has pulled up the back of the bra, this phenomenon is also suggested by cues like the following ones I see in these photos:
- the angle of the band in your profile-position photo, #3, seems to tilt up
- the bra cuts into your armpit tissue quite a lot, despite the fact you do not have an extraordinarily fleshy area there (I would not be shocked if you got a bit of indent in some bras but this seems like a lot)
- the fact that the bra/cups are creeping downwards on the body (when back rides up, front tends to ride down)
- there is tons of wrinkling at the base of the cup, more than I'd expect with a too-small or too-shallow cup (usually major horizontal wrinkles are indicative of a too-tight band, although in this scenario of course any tightness would be because the band is being forced to sit on a diagonal level--not because it's actually too small).
Updated on December 6, 2019 Flag this