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Bra fitting help » Fabric folds, wire pushed down

Prima Donna » Madison Underwired Bra (0162121) » 80G 36:7

Let me start by saying this bra’s band is too loose - I have tried around 15 bras now in both 32, 34 and 36. 32 is too tight in this brand, and 36 is too loose. Which leaves 34. (Going to point out that going down a band size helps the issue a bit, but doesn’t make it disappear).
My biggest issue with this bra has been the folding fabric in the bottom and the wire. When I take the side wing and front and put it where it should be (where my IMF is) it lifts the bra about an inch from where it sits normally, but it DOES NOT STAY THERE. The underwire is way up in my armpit but it does eliminate a lot of the folded fabric and space at the side (mostly it seems to bunch it together, my breast isn’t filling it out). When I then move my arm it pushes the underwire down to a place where it only pokes a little - But that also pushes the whole bra down that inch where it then rests too far down, which makes the problem look worse.

The cup seems pretty okay, it actually gets super close to tacking complete (the best I’ve tried is Primadonna Delight in 34FF which tacks completely but also have the fabric issue, not as pronounced as this bra though). I’m very close at the top, sort of a V from my view, where the breasts start. But I can’t fill out the bottom of the cup even though it looks like my breasts lie close at the top.
Pushing my breast down into the cup fixes the fabric issue but almost immediately it gets pushed upwards again leaving the fabric unfilled.

I have also noticed I can put 1 finger in the fold at the side, like the is 1 finger width between the underwire and my breast tissue. I don’t know if perhaps it means I need a wire that is more narrow.

I should probably say English isn’t my first language, so if there’s any confusion to my description do ask me to clear it up.

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