Bra fitting help » Square shape from side, due to straps?
Ewa Michalak » Hm Cukiereczek (574) » 70G 32:9
Issue resolved
aah yes, it is a bit too small. I will wear it with an extender and loosen the straps, and order a bigger size next time.
Original problem
This is a lovely (bedroom) bra, but there are some fit issues:
I usually wear a 32G, and this is a 30G. Cup wise this bra is a bit on the small size, though not much, as the measurements are pretty similar to my best fitting bra. There is no quad boob, but the gore is not quite tacking. Since it is not available in my size anymore, and I bought this off a fellow brata base user, I can live with that. The band is also a size down from what I usually wear, but surprisingly I do not feel like I need an extender (I pass the 2 finger test easily).
However, the main problem with this bra is that the top of the cup gives me a bit of a square shape from the side, especially when I take a deep breath in (see side view picture).
It is as if the fabric just below the top of the cup is tighter than the absolute top edge of the cup, which seems to cause the square shape. This may have something to do with the construction of the straps (see detail photo), which start in a wedge shape at the top of the cup, as opposed to the usual parallel straps (I think this is meant to give extra lift?).
The slanted inside edge of the straps seems quite tense, and I think I feel this tension continue in the top of the cup, just below the upper edge. I think the strap is somehow pulling at a part of the cup fabric, slightly warping its shape.
If this is the case, I could carefully try to take the straps off, alter them so that the part of the strap that is attached to the cup is no longer a wedge shape but just a regular parallel strap, and reattach it. This may reduce the lift it gives me, but it may also alleviate my square problem.
But maybe I am wrong, and the whole thing is caused by something completely different, or maybe this shape is just not right for me.
Any thoughts?
Note: I have altered the bra a bit, by bending the wires out so the fit my wide roots better. The squareness problem has remained though.
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Suggestions (3)
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helpfulOoh, that's a much better fit than I got! It looks awesome aside from the flattened top.
I had a similar issue with a different HM (this one was too big and wrong shape from the get-go) and I believe it was because it was a little small for my larger boob. I think that made it more squared at the apex instead of the top though, but that might have to do with our different shapes since you clearly have taller roots and perhaps more upper fullness as well.My first instinct in this case was to ask if you could afford to let out the straps a little, but you've already tried that (and an extender) and gotten an improvement so I guess it's perhaps .5-1 cup too small.
I wish I could touch on the strap alteration idea, but that's something I know nothing about.Updated on June 23, 2015 Flag this
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helpfulThis is not abnormal.. it's a fairly typical shape you will get from a vertical-seamed bra when it's too small in the cup. Also, by distorting the wires to fit your wider root, you have effectively made the cup shallower than it was originally, which will exacerbate this effect--. The tension on the cup fabric and the strap also reflect the strain to which a bra is subjected when the cup is not quite big enough to contain the breast (just like any other garment, when it's too tightly stretched). Loosening in all directions with an extender and loosening the straps will relieve some of the tension, but won't change the fact that you do need more cup volume to get a true good fit.
I think it's fine for limited use purposes, such as boudoir photos or in the bedroom. But if you would like to get more use out of a bra of this kind, you'd definitely need to size up.
Updated on June 23, 2015 Flag this
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I think you are right wendybien! As this is my first EM bra, I think this is not a bad start. Especially after a day's wear it has relaxed a bit and the squareness is almost gone.
My next EM hm bra will be ordered in a 34G, and that will probably be perfect.
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Yes I think you will get a great fit with that. This isn't a bad shape for you IMO--just have to get the right size!
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I feel so lucky, I find these to be the prettiest bras around and I only just fit into their largest cup size! Happy ordering will ensue...
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Yes they are very pretty!
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helpfulIt looks too shallow to me - not projected enough. I wonder if thats why the half cups (this is one of their half cup models) dont go up any higher than that? Lovely though
Updated on June 23, 2015 Flag this
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Thanks for your reply. I don't think it's necessarily too shallow though (I am not very projected, average at best). It is over all a bit small in the cup, but the projection feels ok.
I tried 2 things that have improved my problem: I added an extender (1 line of eyes extra) and now the gore lies almost perfectly flat. I also loosened the straps (since my own assessment is that it has something to do with them pulling at the cup too much), and that seriously reduces the squareness. It is still not quite perfect though...
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I've had a few that make me look squared off. I do think sometimes its just slightly too small. But i havent figured it out myself
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Now that I have tweaked it and broken it in a bit, I love it! I was a bit hesitant to order an EM bra from their site, because I was completely in the dark about my size. But took the plunge based on the measurements you provided. I will make it work, and now at least I know my EM size and can order in the future. I agree that a cup size up is a good plan, so I will go for a 34G next time.