Bra fitting help » Gore doesn't tack: Cup too small, but by how much?
Ewa Michalak » Sm Burek (430) » 65GG 30:10
Issue resolved
Following advice to scoop away from the center gore and bending the wires in a little towards my sternum resulted in a lightly tacking gore and no overspill.
Thank you!
Original problem
I recently ordered 3 Ewa Michalak SM's in 65GG (Nana, Burek and Margot), which is the size that fits best in the Marcie. The 30GG Marcie band isn't quite snug enough, but the cups are nearly perfect. Having had trouble determining whether the SM cups run true to size, I thought 65GG would be a good place to start.
Unfortunately, the top of the gores don't tack on any of them. I'm not really familiar with how this style should fit, so I don't know how much breast exposure is normal, but I do know that the gore should tack. I can fit my index finger between the gore and my sternum, sideways, so it's about half an inch away. I'm having a hard time figuring out how many cup sizes I need to go up for these bras to fit. At least one for sure, but would two be a possibility as well?
As a side note for ordering from EM; if a bunch of sizes are missing from the drop down (presumably sold out), does it typically mean that they won't be able to take custom orders for it? I ask because going up in the cup for them would mean I'd need at least 65H, but the Nana is missing a bunch of sizes. I'm a little worried because of the three, the Burek and Nana are my favorites.
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Suggestions (3)
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helpful
Just be aware, the cup looks like the perfect width on the side, you will be sacrificing perfect width for gore tacking. Additionally, the wings will get higher. This is going to happen. Make sure to ask yourself, do I get decent support without the gore tacking? Is it more comfortable or less comfortable with the gore tacking? These are important decisions. Just because something doesn't fit the bra fitting ideal, doesn't mean that's it's good for some people. For example, bands are comfortable when I can pull them away 2-3 inches with my entire hand underneath rather than with only two fingers.
Have you tried mindful scooping and swooping as well? It's a really great way of getting to know what is breast tissue and what isn't. What needs support? http://na-ostatnia-haftke.blogspot.com/2012/03/zakadamy-biustonosz-cz-ii-przewodnik.html
Updated on January 25, 2014 Flag this
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I'd say one cup size up.
But as for the Nana,they are all out of fabric.
They made very few of those bras.I asked them.I'm considering ordering one that could be a cup size or two too small and wearing it during the times of the month that I'm smallest.
I *think* they have more Burek fabric,though.It says infinite number on that one when you add it to favorites and typically that means they can make more.But that can change at any time...two bras I had been considering ordering just went from a ton of sizes available to very few overnight,so I check the site often.Updated on January 25, 2014 Flag this
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Do you get overspill if you press the gore flush against the sternum?
I ask because by Ewa's standards, this bra isn't too big at all - it is the right size for you.
The amount of coverage you get (or lack there of) is exactly what Ewa aims for and going by the photos it is a good enough fit.
I don't see a quad boob per se, I do see some spilling in the middle which could mean that the gore is too low for you or the cups are too week to hold you in. So what you perceive as a too small bra could be just your boobs settling in the middle.So, the test would be to scoop your boobs in the cups AWAY FROM THE GORE - which is equally important as scooping away from the wires, and then press the gore flush.
If the overspill amounts for a cup size's worth (2cm difference in Ewa's bras), then a cup up.Sizing up would get you a slightly higher gore, which would help.
You would also need to tighten your straps some more in a cup up to get the lift, which could lead to straps cutting off your arms. There would also be more empty space where cups and straps meet.
Wires could also get uncomfortably high under arms.What I'm saying is - when you put all pros and cons together, it is equally possible this is the best size for you in this bra as it is possible you need a cup up.
So - if you don't get significant overspill pressing the gore, I'd say stick with this size and bend the wires so they tack better at the gore (bend the gore inward fro the base). I had to do that to all Ewas I owned because her wires just don't match my torso shape. Luckily, they are easy to bend in and out of shape.
The big questions are - how does it look under clothes and do you feel safe and comfortable in it?
Updated on January 26, 2014 Flag this
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I'm not sure why I hadn't tried scooping away from the center, but doing that brings the gore about 1/8" away. Bending the wires in a bit brought the gore in the rest of the way and I don't feel like I'm falling into the center anymore! Much more comfortable and supportive! I do feel a little exposed, but I can totally get used to that.
You guys really put things into perspective for me. I'm much happier with these bras after hearing what you guys thought and taking on the advice. Thank you so much! You all saved me from much disappointment and trouble.
From now on, I won't hesitate so much on compromising a little on a not far from perfect fit. I'll also keep in mind that not everything works right out of the box. Sometimes you gotta make it work!Thanks again, everyone!
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I have mild symmastia (my breasts almost touch and between them there's a bridge of tissue), and gore tacking for me is really erratic. Some bras do it, and some don't, and it's not always the ones which tack which feel the most comfortable and secure. The only way a gore tacks is by digging into my breast tissue, so it's not that great anyway :/
I ask myself 'does everything stay in place when I wear the bra?' 'do I feel supported?'.
So, if the gore is the only issue, and everything else feels great, I'd say this is your best cup size. If the lack of tacking is compromising your support, you could consider a size up, but as Jillsas said, you'll end up with wider wires and taller wings & cups. Bra fit is very much about compromise though. Once you understand the basic ideals, it's up to you what you find most comfortable and which issues bother you the most.