Bra fitting help » Gaping at armpit post strap narrowing alteration (sewing help?)
Ewa Michalak » Sf Promyczek » 70G 32:9
Issue resolved
Moved the elastic strap at the armpit into a rounder shape, tried to add darts; going to redo those and see if the fit is better.
Original problem
My fit: soft tissue, FOB, narrow roots, splayed I think?
Fit: Ewa Michalak straps are too wide set for my narrow shoulders, so I just automatically assume I'm going to have to alter them myself as soon as I get them. This one is no different. It feels a little stretchier/looser than the other SF style I have (Pin-Up) but that is probably the fabric and not the design.
I put an arrow where my issue is, and it might be more "seamstress" type help than bra fitting. Hopefully there is someone on here who has some experience altering bras! I think I realize what I did wrong, though, I guess I just want confirmation. Where I've re-sewn the elastic along the armpit has a big gape now, and the strap creates an odd pulling/smooshing of the breast shape along the side of the cup. Should I try to reattach the elastic in a different spot? It's only so long, so I'm limited with where I can place it. I think I need to stretch it out a lot more as I am sewing it to the fabric, creating more of a gathered effect.
Anyways, I am more annoyed at the gaping areas, but I'm wearing the bra right now anyways. It's not noticeable under shirts, but it might be more so under a tank top.
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helpfulI have done the exact same thing before, so I know how you feel. I think you moved the straps in a bit too much, so the angle they tug at the cups at is causing it to distort the outer area of the cup under the arm. Moving the straps back out a bit would help, but you can also add a bullet just under the armpit area & possibly resolve the issue as well.
For me, I realized my issue wasn't really the straps being too wide set, it's really just that the angle under the arm isn't rounded enough, causing the cup to "jump the curb" instead of "rounding the corner" so the side of the cup met resistance at my armpit. By lowering the curve while leaving the straps in their normal placement, I got more favorable results.
I've uploaded an example of what I mean:
https://www.bratabase.com/bra/dis3a/
This might help you as well, & is an easier alteration to do.
Updated on June 5, 2018 Flag this
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It's never too late. (Well, except for my frankenbra that I cut the whole cup out of..... Also an Ewa bra haha)
If you removed the extra material, it would be more difficult to move the straps back out, but all is not lost.
Try to add a temporary dart, using a pin or a safety pin, so you can see if that will resolve the issue. (Always a good idea to try before making the alterations permanent. )
If it doesn't resolve the issue, you can simply remove the pin & hash out a new plan.
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Looking a bit closer at the alterations photos, I think the issue lies with the lack of curve in your alteration. The curve went from a curved "J" to more of a straight "/" so the curve doesn't follow your body any longer. By removing the curve, it amplifies the frontal strap tug on the cups.
As you labeled on the caption, you need to have that elastic a bit stretched as well, so that it can tug back a bit. If you remove the seam & pin the elastic a bit tighter - try it on before cutting the elelastic though. That might solve the issue alone, otherwise try lowering the curve a bit, which will also tighten that elastic. If you opt for this, only do little slits, not a long as I did, or you'll get side boob escapage instead.
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Oh, thanks for explaining that! I’m gonna try the curve thing tomorrow and will report back. And I HAVE to see this frankenbra if you have pics!
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Trial & error, sometimes it's the only way. Haha.
I do. I actually had them & the bra uploaded here but I deleted it a few months back. I will consider adding it back in....... :-)
Here's the adventure I did on it, though the link to the bra photos from it doesn't work now. But it gives you an explanation of what I did to it.
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I added some pictures (#11-13) of my attempts at fixing it. I managed to fix the curve, but my movement of the straps caused that weird flattened part in the middle of the cup. I added some really quick darts to either side, which helped with the top part of the cup near the armpit. But that just pushed my tissue more towards the bottom of the cup, which doesn't have enough room, causing weird lumpage. It also sort of smooshed some of the top tissue up and out.
MAN bra design is tricky! I have a lot more respect for all those bra makers out there. Thank goodness they know what they are doing (for the most part, hahah!)
Not sure this is salvageable, at least for me. It was definitely an experiment, and I learned a lot about messing with bra designs when I really shouldn't, hahah!
Next Ewa bra, I'm going to try what you suggested, MamaPagan and not mess with the strap itself, but just make the curve of the elastic rounder. -
It doesn't look bad, & I think it was a marvelous attempt! The curve looks a lot better for sure. My only additional suggestion would be to do the darts on the underside (?inside) of the cup so it would be smoother under clothing.
After doing such alterations it really gives an appreciation to those who are skilled at the task for sure!
Entry closed
So if I’ve already removed the fabric from the tops of the cups, where the straps meet, is it too late to save this bra? I’m not sure I’m confident enough to add a dart to the bra, though at this point, I may as well make this a (very expensive) practice bra. :(