Bra fitting help » EM better band - cup wrong and hurting?!

Ewa Michalak » Pl Black (64) » 70L 32:17

Issue resolved

Closing the fit request. There is general consensus that it's too small in the cups for me, and I need to go up to 70LL, plus some suggestions for similar bras. Duly noted!

I am not going to alter the straps after all because I found someone who is interested in buying this one. This will give me the money to buy the larger size which should be better! Yay!

Original problem

This 70L band is SUPER tight (probably extra felt because I'm forced to still wear my old 75 band bras). I felt a little light-headed after trying the bra on for a couple minutes so I took it off and grabbed my extender. I'm comfortably wearing the bra now with 2 rows added (pictures are with extender). Hearing about the stretchiness of EM bras I think this is a good thing, it'll stretch sometime soon and I'll be able to get the most out of this bra with the 4 rows in itself.

The cups... are awesome. They feel like they are too narrow for me (measurements agree), but it also feels like it's a good fit in width especially when I scoop&swoop. This may also be because I am still kind of used to my old super-too-small bras that are also too narrow.

There seems to be a hint of gaping at my smaller boob, especially when I pitch my shoulders forward. This might be because the cups are moulded and keep their shape, I guess. Not sure because I have never worn moulded before. I guess this bra will foce me to sit up straight properly and not hunched over Still, the gaping is not much and not visible at all even under tight shirts.

The center gore is still not on my skin, though when I sweep my boobs to the sides the gore lies flat. But as soon as I let go they flow back to their usual position (against each other) and force the gore just a bit outward. My roots do seem to touch each other so I guess they are just too close-set for a gore to ever lie flat.
When I do push the gore flat, the gaping disappears.

After wearing it for a few hours at the end of the day (the day it arrived), my rib cage hurt near the middle, about where the center gore ends on the sides, aka where the wires actually start touching my body. The band also curls up on the underside of my boobs, so there's probably a connection there.

Why would it hurt so, and only there? Is there anything I can do about it?
Is the top of my smaller boob like it's supposed to be, or is this maybe a cup too large?

11 years, 4 months ago Flag this

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Suggestions (2)

1
helpful

Hi, looking at the photographs I would try one cup size larger and stay with the same band size if possible, there are LL and M cup sizes available.That is as long as your smaller breasts cup does not become too loose. Have you tried the Panache Melody full cup in a 32KK . I think this maybe a similar size, I don't know how Ewa Michalak bra sizing compares with Panache.

Updated on January 25, 2013 Flag this
- A cup larger? It would make it wider, but wouldn't that make the gaping even worse? I'm just trying to understand your suggestion completely, and feel like I'm missing something in understanding.
  The band size will stay the same for sure, as I've tried a 75K and that was most definitely too loose on me.
  
  I have not tried the Panache Melody, but I am writing it down right now on the to-try list.
  No idea either how EM compares to any brand, but I was mega quadboobing out of Curvy Kate 32K balconettes (Angel, Romance, Lottie).
- Caroline: I find Panache much more generous in cup size than EM. I would say that Panache KK is equivalent to EM LL, but then again it varies with models.
- ohmyohmy in that case the suggested KK fits right in with the 'go one cup up' :)
- It does indeed!
- @both: Panache Melody full cup was suggested for me to try. I just did a search on "panache melody 32KK" and found fullcup and balconette versions available. Should I only look at the fullcup, or is balconette also a possibility for me?
- 1
  
  I've found the Panache Melody to run small by about one cupsize. Out of two Melody bras the fullcup seemed to be a bit better in stability. Shape was not so good in both bras. The Melody seems to work only if you are pretty even-distributed, a little bit like a torpedo. If you are full on top or full on bottom you'll get a very funny shape in this bra.
- Thanks. I'm still not sure if I'm full on top or bottom, I'm thinking I'm both... full everywhere! So yes torpedo shaped. Hmmm if it runs a cupsize small the KK would actually NOT be sizing up, I'd need L for that. But it stops at KK, so I'd have to alter a 34KK. Well, if the cups are good I will.
- Another bra that I've found to work well for "torpedo boobs" is the Fantasie Florence. The stability of this bra is a joke, it is wobbly like jell-O. You'd have to replace the wires with something more stable and also do something to the very stretchy band, but apart from that... If you find it cheap on ebay, pick it up.
- LOL jell-O boobs! Sounds like something to experiment with if I can find it cheap ^^
- I think the straps are too wide-set for you. I often have problems with the cup fit because of where the straps are attached. It's looks as though the straps are cutting in at your armpits. While wearing the bra, if I pull up the fabric near the armpit just an inch or so closer to the neck, the gaping goes away and the need for another cup size is gone :)
- 1
  
  Whoops, I didn't notice the gore isn't laying flat. I hastily took a glimpse of your photos. Anyway, If everything else feels good in the future in another bra, and the cups are gaping and you don't know why, you could try what I just told you! :)
- Yeah, I will probably try to move the straps closer to the center by an inch (more or less). Should help very much with the gaping, and indeed it's a too small cup because it's *still* not a flat gore. Was thinking of maybe just adding a center-pull strap to it but now that I'm thinking about it it's better to move the straps.
- I know this fit request is old, but I just had a thought! Since you're custom ordering your bras from EM, couldn't you ask for her to sew your bras with straps that are closer to the center? :) I'm not sure if she's willing to do it but it could never hurt to ask and I'm having a hard time imagining that she would charge extra for such a simple alteration like that. It might save you a lot of hazzle. You could send her a picture of you wearing this bra for example showing her where the straps are currently situated(it's obvious in the pictures they're too far out), and ask for them to be situated closer to the center :)
- Yes, I think I read somewhere that they do that if asked. Thank you for the reminder, I had completely forgotten!!
  Counts as custom order and bras become non-returnable if they ever were.
  I ordered 'normal' 70LL and 70M now to see how the cups are, mostly, and will get myself some help from an experienced person to move the straps. For any future EM orders though I'll know how much I want the straps moved so they can do it for me :D
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1
helpful

I had the same thing with karmelki... well, except for the gapping, mine was really too small.
The first thing I would like you to do is to pull the bra up higher. Shorten the straps some more and pull it up so it covers your side spillage. Do you get quadboob now? If not, we proceed.

If you are keeping the bra, time for adjustments.
First, it hurts you because the band is curling down and the stupid seam is scratchy. So, what you do is you sew the band so it curls outwards.
Like BIHAL did here
http://brasihate.blogspot.com/2012/03/adventures-in-showgirl-curvy-kates.html
After doing this, sometimes the pressure from the wires becomes more painfull. This is where you start considering bra liners

Secondly, if you don't get quadboob when you press the gore, the bra isn't too small. This means you should bend the wires. And you are in luck because the wires on Ewa are super bendy. You should shape the bra so it fits your ribcage and you should bend the gore inward so it lays flat.
Hope it works,
Hugz&Kissez

Updated on January 25, 2013 Flag this
- 1
  
  Vee: What will happen with you and Karmelki?
  
  @petalmoon: I've did some super lengthy comments about EM this week and I still think their construction are not good enough to hold heavy boobs.
  
  I was about to write a lengthy comment here as well, but since I saw Vee had already made one I want to see how it goes for both of you.
- First off, I must keep this bra as it is custom made and non-returnable ;)
  
  Now, off to the testing. Shortening straps until they feel like they are pulling up the band. Yup, band riding up even with trouble getting into it in the first place... stupid band.
  Gaping disappears. Quadboob is forcable through extra inhaling in combination with shoulders extra back, but does not happen with normal stance and normal breathing.
  OK WTF happened here, after shortening straps and playing around with the wires a bit (bending them especially around the gore), now when I press the gore flush I DO get slight quadboob!! Gore still won't lie flat but seems to be just a tad closer so more bending might help there.
  
  Yes, the hurting does appear at the spot where the vertical seam ends. But it does curl outwards, possibly because I have a high rounded tummy. My bra bands always slip approx. 1inch down during the day (this one too, it seems) after pulling the bra up properly so the wires start the day at my breast root. No idea how to stop that, and might have something to do with this or not. Hmmm and now it seems to curl inward... the underside of the gore at least. blah!
- petalmoon - please update with pictures of adjustmenst. Maybe it is a cupsize too small then? I know it's hard to tell with these bras, they seem to almost work in every size.
  @Branarchist - not sure... I have so many ill fitting bras laying in my drawer that I keep on hoping they will miraculously fit me again somehow... I think karmelki will be laying around for some time,the darn thing is wearable still and I'm missing nude and/or white bras to wear with lighter clothes.
  I wonder how would it behave when I drop more pounds. Might just get worse..
- Will do, fiance should be home soon so he can snap the pics so my arm movement doesn't distort anything in the fit.
  I've now also sewn up the band under the cups like BIHAL did - I went maybe a little crazy but I just did it from wing to wing. The whole frikking thing was curling every which way so I figured why not.
  
  Still... I'm like "they're gaping! how can it be too small? it's gaping!"
  
  After examining the band fit at the front again, it seems like I may be pulling the bra up too high, making it sit on the bottom of my breasts right where they start, and the band just slides down to my proper underbust. I will try and see if I can capture that on photo, too.
- Didn't get to take pictures last night but will make them today.
  
  Also had a possibly weird thought: Is it possible that the weight of my boobs presses the wires into my body? I've never had this issue before, so maybe it's got something to do with the fact this is a moulded cup? Could the weight&gravity pushing down make the wires press into my body (it is the underside of the wires that hurts, especially around the gore)?
  Did this even make sense, did I explain my thoughts properly?
- Well, its probably combination of boobs and gravity pulling down and belly and straps pushing up. :)
  Are the wires hurting more now that you've sewn up the band?
  Also, if the bra is gapping, try shortening the straps some more!
- The wires are hurting just about the same now that I've sewn up the band. Drat, I really hoped it would make a difference.
  I simply cannot shorten the straps any more, they are now uncomfortably short, pulling the bra into my armpit it's near hurting (like HowHeavenly has here http://www.bratabase.com/troubleshoot/dhr8d/).
  The gaping does disappear but the straps are so short they are pulling the band up. I really need to get those pictures taken, lol.
- Did you bend the wires? That should relieve some tension. Also, maybe you should think about nessoas fix of moving the strap position? That would make more room in the armpit area and remove the gapping..
- That would also give a hair wider wires :)
- Huh? Never though of that :) How?
- Vee: That's why I jokingly said you could move the strap backwards to get narrower wires XD
  
  The strap position when high on chest kind of is key to where the wire will end up XD
  
  The further out the straps the more depth in front. And vise vice versa XD
- If you allow more fabric in the armpit the wires will or at least *can* be moved backwards.
  
  When straps tightened to the max wire distortion is close to impossible.
- This is why one needs tripple straps :)
- So wide wires should at least in theory be super easy to make narrower by just sewing a dart in the excess fabrics back where the wire meets the wing. If the bra is unpadded of course :D
- Vee: Exactly!
- OK, I just took some pictures. Not sure if they will be of any use, but will get them online and link in a couple minutes.
  
  I really do think moving the straps might fix a lot, at least how the bra digs into my armpit and maybe it will help determine if this cup is indeed too small. Because when I pull the cups up with my hands where I'd think the straps need to be (about an inch or so toward the middle), it sure makes the gaping disappear, possibly even quadboobing as a result. It's quite scary to do such a non-reversible alteration (as opposed to sewing the band up or pinching the gore).
  Did wire bending, afraid to break the wires so I'm taking it slow. I'm not sure if it makes a difference yet.
- Finally did the uploading. Can you say short attention span? LOL.
  
  Anyway, I did them myself after all but with my left hand so the right side was as undisturbed as possible.
  Here's me with the alterations, sort of 45 angle shot: https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/555431_537675399589763_332632335_n.jpg
  Tried to take a shot of the band: https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/317928_537675386256431_2022957442_n.jpg
  Close up of how it tries to cut into my armpit: https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/251841_537675396256430_717800384_n.jpg
  The still-gaping right side: https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/523193_537675436256426_359017134_n.jpg (aargh)
  Gore, pushed flush: https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/533780_537675449589758_719945132_n.jpg
  Underside, darnit I really can't get the sewn up band properly photographed here: https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/72343_537675452923091_795713759_n.jpg
  And me lifting a boob to try and see if this was better: https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/734432_537676802922956_840295623_n.jpg
  
  So I was thinking if I move the straps I'd want them at the first full 'up arc' of lace at the top of the cup - it's about an inch inward.
  Where could I find good tutorials on how to do this?
- http://dressingcurves.blogspot.se/2012/03/alterations-moving-strap-position.html
  
  Here's how to move the strap position.
  
  I'm thinking the bra probably is too small though. Imagine the cups becoming flatter when being able to tighten the straps in a better position.
  
  You could try lifting the cups up as if you had a strap there to see if it's too small :)
- Thanks!
  Yes, I've lifted the cups from the new strap position and I thought I had something written down here about that...
  *checks previous comments* ah yes, must've been skipped because I didn't have the pictures earlier today.
  
  Quoting myself here lol "Because when I pull the cups up with my hands where I'd think the straps need to be (about an inch or so toward the middle), it sure makes the gaping disappear, possibly even quadboobing as a result. It's quite scary to do such a non-reversible alteration (as opposed to sewing the band up or pinching the gore).
  Did wire bending, afraid to break the wires so I'm taking it slow. I'm not sure if it makes a difference yet."
  
  I do believe it is probably too small, something that'll be proven when I move the straps and it'll become much clearer. But if it also removes the pressure from my boobs on the wire-bottom and therefore removes the hurt, it's perfectly wearable for now.
- 1
  
  Ah, sorry, I forgot about that, I now remember reading it when rereading it :D
- Haven't gotten around yet to moving the straps, life got in the way. Should be able to do it end of the week or the weekend though. Fingers crossed!
  
  OK, so I've got a coupon from EM for 100zlt which means that by selling 2 of my CurvyKates I now have the money to buy another PL.
  Do you think I'd need to go up one or two cup sizes? In the PL black, that is.
  I'll write up a bra adventure to get sizing advise how it compares to the Malwa/Lilia/Stalowka one of which I'm gonna buy.
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Bra fitting help » EM better band - cup wrong and hurting?!

Ewa Michalak » Pl Black (64) » 70L 32:17

Issue resolved

Original problem

Fit issues

Suggestions (2)