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Bra fitting help » Cup collapse, tight straps, bottom heavy.

Bravissimo » Alexa Bra (LN553) » 36HH 36:12

Issue resolved

Needed more immediate projection.

Original problem

I am new to NON Victoria secret measuring. And this is a new size trial. This bra seems to fit fairly well in the band but I can't fill the bottom of the cups. Every cup collapses, whether to big or to small, the bottom folds in. I'm definitely bottom heavy! The gore is flat tho, and I like the wire here I think but the cups next to the gore seem to be pulling apart? I don't quite fill the top of the cup on my smaller side. And the bigger side seems to a quad just a bit. The straps are so tight that they hurt. Almost every bra I've ever worn the straps are too tight. To the point where they leave red marks and cause pain. My suggested sizes range from 34gg to 36j. This is the only 36 band I've tried because I kept going up in bands to find a cup. One brand had me in a US40H. Not my best look.
Need help figuring out what to try next, also help for the tight straps. I can't be the only one who always has tight straps. Maybe my shoulders are high? Or low breast root?
*Edit, I've tried a few 40/38h panache balconies, and 40H I think Charlotte parfait. I'm pretty sure the bands were problems. But I HATED the panache balconies, bullet boobs aren't for me.

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