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Bra fitting help » Loose band, gore doesn't tack, don't fill lower cups.

Panache » Clara Full Cup Bra (7255) » 30D 30:4

This bra is beautiful and comfortable and I want so badly to make it work! Being 4'11", I almost always have issues with cups gaping and gores coming too high, neither of which are issues with the Clara in 30D.

My issues:
-The band seems a bit loose. It sits parallel when trying it on briefly, but it stretches out a bit far which makes me wonder. When I slip the straps off my shoulders, the weight of my breasts definitely lowers the whole bra, making me feel like the band isn't doing enough supporting on its own. In the pictures, I have the straps loosened as much as possible.
-The gore doesn't tack.
-The bottoms of the cups are wrinkly.
-My nipples sit above the silky fabric and under the stretchy lace instead, which leaves them completely visible under clothes (is that where the apex of this bra is supposed to be?).

I wish I could try this in a 28DD, but if Panache makes the Clara in that size I can't find it anywhere. I failed to order a 30DD to try, but I suspect that if I did I'd have gaping at the top like with every other bra I've tried. I'm new to figuring out actual bra sizing, and I still haven't found any underwire bras that actually work well for me, so any help or advice is appreciated! Thank you!

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