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Bra fitting help » Gore doesn't tack anywhere. Projection issue?

Parfait By Affinitas » Charlotte Padded Bra (6901) » 32E 32:6

Issue resolved

cups too shallow, not right shape

Original problem

I tried on this size and a size smaller (my "usual size"- 32dd) as I was told to size up. Glad I did, 32dd was too small.

see pics here

I like the way this looks but it does not tack at all- top or bottom of gore. It feels like it is riding on my ribcage- which, I guess, it is; and not secure.

When I pull the band tighter, it still doesn't tack. I have a concave ribcage, I guess, which doesn't help.

I have this experience with most bras - really all except for the cleo and panache balconettes I have tried. But, their wires were not comfortable. I guess my chest/sternal shape is why most bras feel like they are floating on my ribs and don't feel secure --because they are..

The band fits comfortably. I can fit a whole hand in the back under the band, but I could do that with the 30 cleos I tried on that felt too tight. I tried them on upside down/backwards and the stretchier cleo (kayla) didn't feel too tight, although definitely snugger than the stretchy 32 natori and VS bands I"m used to. I am used to (and like) forgetting the feeling that I am wearing a bra..

I am wondering if my immediate or center projection is pushing the gore away and preventing it from tacking?

Any other ideas, comments or bra suggestions appreciated! : )

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