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Bra fitting help » What's wrong here -- too large, too small, wrong shape?

Freya » Patsy Padded Longline Bra (1222) » 36G 36:9

Issue resolved

I learned an enormous amount from the generous responses to this query... it's not so much that I fixed the issue as that people helped me work out in what I direction I needed to proceed. I am going on to other bras knowing that center fullness is going to be an issue for me. I'll also be paying greater attention to cup width to gather more information about my true root dimension, and I need to get better at reading and making use of the measurement system here! I am also going to try some other plunges and see if my tissue is simply too soft for that cut.

Thank you to all who helped.

Original problem

First post, and I apologize in advance for both picture quality and the gaps in my knowledge. I am in the process of weeding out the non-fitting bras in my collection -- mostly lots with major armpit muffin and center spillage, which I guess means cups too small or narrow or gore too wide, generally. But this one, ... is confusing. It gives me no armpit muffin and is more comfortable there than my other bras, but seems to be both too big in the top of the cup or, if I swoop and scoop, possibly too small or the wrong shape? (see pictures) And once I scoop, the gore floats well away from my sternum too. The whole arrangement feels pretty unstable but generally pinches less than everything else I own.

I guess my question is this: clearly this bra doesn't quite fit. But why, exactly? What should I be looking for in my next try?

For what it's worth, Bratabase is estimating my size as 36:9 34G/36FF/36G, which seems on the small side by the bras I own (34's are really no-go now). The calculator at A Bra That Fits is estimating 36:11 or 36:12, 36H or HH or 34J -- and I have not yet tried anything on in that range, but it seems large (maybe that is sticker shock?). I think I have wide roots and quite a lot of projection when supported, and I'm both quite full on top and not very firm. I am still a bit unclear on the rest.

Thanks in advance.

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