Bra fitting help » Gore not tacking
Curvy Kate » Bardot Balcony Bra (SG3101) » 40J 40:13
Issue resolved
The wires were the problem, as you all correctly observed. However, the issue was actually soft wires and gore height. I replaced the wires with 30HH Panache wires I had lying around and I now have a tacking gore and a lot more stability. The Panache wires are firm and can hold up the gore against my heavy tissue better. They are narrower but for some reason the cup is not too deep now, it's just right, probably because my tissue is dispersed to the front instead of to the sides now. I have sewn them into the channels so I have a 1 inch allowance at the top of the gore too, so my touching section doesn't push them out. This has improved fit all around as I no longer have chafing where the band turns under or under my smaller side armpit because the wires are holding me aloft and not getting up into me. As a bonus, the band feels nice and snug and quite supportive now that the wires are narrower and placing more tension on the back band. Couldn't have figured it out without you all. Thanks!
Original problem
Can anyone tell me why during normal wear of this bra the gore stops tacking? I scoop and swoop and everything feels great. Then 10 mins later I feel unsupported and I see the gore isn't tacking anymore. What gives? I really want to wear this bra because it should fit! Also I'm used to the top of the gore being pushed out due to touching tissue but not this far! I mean we are talking 2 inches off my sternum but I don't quad when it is tacking. Bonus points if you can use physics to explain the problem to me. Finally, is there an alterations solution?
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Suggestions (3)
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Hmm... well, I don't see a ton of CK in this size range so my guess could be a bit off, but having looked at some of your other CKs as well, I get the sense that in many bras, you have been sizing up beyond your true cup volume in order to avoid the typical quadding due to the relative shallowness of their cups near the gore. So you end up in oversized, as well as REALLY wide and tall cups, with a relative lack of support after a few minutes. If you're like most people you will initially be tempted to address this as best you can by tightening the straps-- but with the over-wide wires' failure to brace properly against the body , the weight and projection of your bust tends to push down at the front and hoist up the band in the back. Over time the whole bra/bosom just starts to be pulled south since there is nothing anchoring it in place, neither wires (they are just twisting, out at the gore and up/in at the sides since they can't brace against you) nor band.
I don't know about an alterations solution. I am concerned that this type of fit will cause you to end up with broken underwires and/or the ends of the wires wandering so much that they stab you. Really I would advise you to buy the few designs that are narrower and not so shallow at the center, avoiding the upsizing--as you can see with your Comexim, in a better-proportioned cup you fit in a cup under 15". Failing that, I think you will need to look for a band that is VERY firm... I'm talking like military school firm... as this would at least keep everything anchored in place and provide support from below. A longline might help or just sizing down if you can tolerate it.
Updated on September 26, 2016 Flag this
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Also could narrowing the gore open the cup in the center? I've read that helps.
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Do you mean narrowing the gore and putting in narrower wires for this bra? Well, the problem with this bra isn't lack of depth per se as you are in a cup volume that you actually fit into. It's not your breast volume that is causing the gore to gradually stop tacking, it's the wires and band's failure to anchor the whole bra/bosom structure firmly in place. So any alterations that are typically used to make the cup fit deeper or more open, are not really going to address the problem; putting in narrower wires will in fact then make the cups TOO deep for you I think, because you'll get better "bracing" against the body but you will lose surface tension and I think this will still cause some southward slump in front. If you were to buy a SMALLER size cup and then alter that to narrow both wires and gore you might get somewhere. But honestly I'm a little concerned that even after all that trouble you might still wind up with a dodgy fit.
How do you feel about Ewa, nonwired options and longlines? Have you tried these? How about Kris Line?
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I actually have one in a smaller cup and band size that I could try altering.
I think I'm too big for Kris Line but I can't really tell because there's nothing here in my size and I can't figure out their measurement system.
I tried Ewa (see my previous fit request) and they are too round/not projected enough/too tall for me. Because I'm omega with short roots the gathering effect they do causes my breasts to actually fold up over my chest wall on top. The S cut is also very tall and uncomfortable. I'm sized out of the BM which was my best fit. I want to try the FB but lack the funds right now.
I won't do unwired bras because I hate uniboob. I need to look professional for my work and I haven't found an unwired bra that does that.
I have a Comexim longline on the way. I also have a Curvy Kate plunge in 40j because plunges seem to stay in place and the 38j I have only minimally quads.
I just can't afford to keep buying bras, cutting the tags off, and 3 hours later not having them fit. I'm kind of despairing right now.
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Have you gotten uniboob in seamed nonwired? I find that is more of a seamless issue. My friend who is 44-46H-HH-J-ish in most brands gets a nice defined shape in seamed cups and she just does not do wires at all. Some nonwireds are a little pointier than she prefers but definitely not uniboob. She is a realtor and dresses up every day, she definitely looks very professional! But I know every pair of boobs is different.
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I was going to say migration of tissue after swooping and scooping due to lack of support. My chest moves more in unpadded bras after a little wear and my chest is smaller. My chest does not move enough to untack the gore but I am also a little more FOB. As to the physics of it....perhaps gravity pulls down on the weight of your chest? I tried
Updated on September 26, 2016 Flag this
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How does the band feel? Could you imagine it being tighter but still comfy? It measures a bit on the bigger side so maybe if it was tighter your tissue wouldn't escape as much and you would feel more supported.
Updated on September 26, 2016 Flag this
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I actually have a 36jj too that stretches now to 38. I put that on the tightest hooks (very uncomfortable). I get the same problem but I also get quadding everywhere on my big side because it's a cup size smaller. When I put it on the loosest hook it's ok but I have the same problem.
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Would replacing the wires with narrower ones help do you think? I've done that with most of my bras now but these wires are the narrowest I'm going to get in ready to wear brands. My Panache bras, for instance, will tack but they are 1-2 inches wider and I've replaced all those wires with 30HH wires to get them narrow enough.
I went with Bardot and friends specifically because centerfull folks recommended it. But my Princess is actually a much better fit.
I've actually been sizing up due to slight weight gain last month which I initially thought was period bloat. In fact, all my measurements increased :(
And actually now my Comexim doesn't tack either because it's a size too small and soft wires, but I feel supported and it doesn't move around, probably, you're right, because of the narrow wires and the padding give me more support. It's the only bra I feel comfortable wearing right now because the quadding is in the center and doesn't show under clothes, and the band, though large, doesn't seem to be buckling under the weight of my breasts. All the rest are pain/quad city.