This is my second attempt at sewing a bra, and my first attempt at using a self-drafted pattern. Basically, this was designed to be a test of my basic pattern to check the fit and comfort. The sizing is a best guess based on the stretched length of the band, and the fact that my pattern was based off the size 19 cup on Foundations Revealed, indicated to be the same as 28:19/30:18/32:17 etc.
This bra is wireless, and the band is a height which may possibly get the name longline from some companies, but this is by virtue of the fact that it has garment elastic on the ...lower hem instead of the usual blush hem elastic (the stuff you normally get on bras with the scalloped edges). Most of the materials are from a bra kit I purchased. The cups and cradle are made of a layer of apricot stretch lace and a layer of white non-stretch stabilising lining. The wings are made from two layers of powernet. The bra fastens with 4 rows of 3 columns of hooks and the straps are fully adjustable.
For the curious, I measure 73cm/28.5" under and 118cm/46.5" over my bust when wearing this bra.
The aesthetics of the kit tend to very feminine, but I think that I'd not mind buying a bra in apricot lace anyway. The apricot seems to be close enough to actually being a nude colour on my warm-toned fair skin. The kit was rated for 40DD-48C, and I had more than enough powernet to cut out two sets of wings with the extra hem for the elastic, but I wouldn't really want to make a much larger cup from the amount of cup materials provided. I feel like the bow included was ludicrously small (and I'm contemplating getting something else to put on the gore which won't look pointlessly tiny), but the size range it was designed for may not have this particular issue. A small complaint I'd have for these materials is that while the straps are nice and thick, firm and stable, the elastic designed for edging the bra isn't nearly as strong as the straps, so it's really stretched out in order for the straps to provide any lift. As there was heaps of strap, and I had to trim some off, I'd contemplate maybe using that instead to edge the upper part of the wing which extends down to the clasps if I was to use a similar kit in the future.
The basic pattern design came from the series of articles on Foundations Revealed, which show how to grade a bra block and also how to create a variety of styles of bras. If you have any interest in drafting your own bra patterns, I'd say this is an excellent resource.
I chose to go for a 2-piece cup with a vertical seam as I wanted it to be easy to make changes to the fit if required. This design choice is responsible for the super pointy/retro shape that the final product has. My husband hates it. I actually don't mind, and I think that if I had proper fitted non-stretch clothing (difficult to get if your bust is too large for full bust clothing :/), that this would look more uplifted than bizaare. Maybe a 50s style blouse or dress can be a future sewing project.
My pattern (of which I'd done a couple of cup mock-ups first to make alterations) seems to have provided a good fit. The only issue I had was that despite having thought I'd accounted for it, my breasts were too short for the original cups, so I ended up trimming a bit off the top of the cup. To give some sort of frame of reference, the cup is about 40cm deep around the deepest part, but vertical depth of the cup (length of the cup seam) is only 31.5 cm. This is actually the explanation of a lot of my fit problems with RTW bras. The wings are the right length and the cradle is a good fit.
The garment elastic on the bottom of the bra seems to have been a really good move, as unlike other wireless bras I've tried, it doesn't try to fold under and dig in from the weight of my breasts. The tradeoff is that it wasn't really possible to get equal tensioning on the top and bottom of the bra, and that plus the fact that there are no wires to provide stability throughout the wing (I played with boning the wings, but plastic boning just seemed to want to curl up like the wings do), means the upper part of the wing is a bit saggy. There's a small weird floaty bit between the cups, as they're cut so that they should fit when sitting flat, but obviously won't do that without wires, but the bra does sit flat at the top and bottom owing to the elastic. I think that's just going to be one of those things with wireless bras.
The stitching isn't perfect, but there's nothing too obviously wonky. I don't know if I'd feel happy selling a bra of this quality to someone else (I don't know if anyone would even want a super pointy cup like this, I realise they aren't the fashionable shape), but it's nice enough to wear.
Overall, this bra seems to be a good fit and very comfortable. I think it may get a bit of love as a house bra unless it causes my husband to take too many hits to his sanity score.
If I was to make a bra just like this again, I think I'd play with the relationship between the inner and outer cup a little to see if I can get a slightly more centred look for my breasts, instead of the faintly outward pointing shape with the almost flat plane on the outside. I also wouldn't use straight stitch on the casing for the elastic (oops!) as the garment isn't gathered but stretch. A short zig-zag would be a lot better if I want to include this feature.
Edit: Much to my devastation, after a couple of washes, the band in this bra has stretched phenomenally out to about 80cm stretched length, making it unwearably long. The wings are very short so I'm not sure if it will be possible to take in the band without ruining the shape of the bra. I'm guessing it must be something to do with the materials used. I may need to investigate some sturdier options for next time or aggressively prewash my fabric. Read more 993 more words
This is my first attempt to sew a sports bra. I butchered my old Shock Absorber Multi Sports 30FF and copied the pattern and this is what I came up with. I think I did pretty good! The bra fits like my old Shock Absorber.
The original SA bra interior was made of thicker fabric, I think duoplex. I used polyesther charmeuse which has similar stretch (quite minimal one way stretch) but is much thinner. Thet´s why my bra isn´t as sturdy. I also think my underband elastic isn´t very firm (plus I hacked it from a previously used bra ... I just wanted to test the pattern as quickly as possible https://d28qt14g3opchh.cloudfront.net/smileys/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /> ) so I see the bra band stretching pretty fast. I think that with duoplex and better underband elastic it will be as good as a RTW Ahock Absorber https://d28qt14g3opchh.cloudfront.net/smileys/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /> This one is good for yoga and also for lounging.
This is my first attempt at making a bra myself, and as such, isn't quite perfect.
It's a 3-part balcony cup, and the bra has fabric straps & 6 rows with 3 columns of hooks (the perks of making it myself). The bra cups are made from bonded cotton & simplex for extra support (the thickness seems to be half-way between a very light padded cup & most fabric cups), and the back is made from 2 layers of tricot powernet.
The bra was made from a pattern which was customised for my measurements, but I think that I may have grown since it was drawn up, as the cups ...seem to be a little small.
I'm really happy with having hooks all the way up the back of my bra. It makes the band extra supportive, and you don't have to worry about it flipping up unlike longlines, as the band has the wires to stabilise it.
I don't know how much wear I'll actually get from this, but I feel like I've learnt a lot & can hopefully create a better bra when I attempt to sew another one in the future. Read more 82 more words
A total departure from nice cute shaping bras. Elastic allover woven sort of contraption that I love to hate.
Sizing ? Whatever's on the multi-pack, namely one size splashes most. Letters and numbers seem meaningless as long as you can get into and disrobe without dislocating a shouder or two. No brainer. Just pick whatever's left in the gondola.
Once inside ? Quite comfy indeed. And no boobs. Gone, anihilated. I can feel them bounce. But they're gone. Ghost boobs?
Pretty claustrophobic until "girls" accept their fate and pushed-in nipples learn not to complain. If it were black, it could well be sold in specialized shops as evil disciplinarian device.
So what's ...the deal, why do I keep buying them in "2 bucks" stores? Simple. They render my boobs almost invisible. No kidding, a shirt that fits pretty loose while wearing one of those will pop seems if I were in a proper projection model.
Easy to handwash, quickly dry, redy to eraze boobs when given the occasion. The secret service boobs best friend.
But, hey, it's a bra, so I dare to entertain you with https://d28qt14g3opchh.cloudfront.net/smileys/icon_wink.gif" alt=";)" /> Read more 79 more words
A good quality bra, but it has seen much love. Very nice lace on the three-piece cups, but the lace is showing some wear. The bra is padded, and has non-removable cookies. The fit is good. The wires are a little narrower than I like, with a small amount of ride-up on the outside of my breast tissue, but not enough to cause discomfort. I wish the strap had more than one hook, but I am surprised it still seems to support the cups. The straps are convertible to a halter bra.
Firstly, I love the combination of teal fabric under black lace! Ive seen similar bra few days ago on bratabse and was so jealous ! Secondly, I am not a fan of longlines - so far only claudette and fortnight are acceptable for me to wear them, and this is the next one. It has 4x4 hooks&eyes. The band is too loose on me on the first set but good when used on the tightest set - perfect! It is unfortunately bit too ...high, but as a lounge bra should be okay. Wires are great, narrow - 13cm, soft - hardly can feel them when the bra is on. Cups, they could be a little deeper, i have little quadboobing on the bigger side, on the smaller theres tiny bit of gapping near the gore, but using pad cause quadboobs, so its good as it is. There are pockets like in EM CHP on the side to slide the cookies, but also as can be seen on pics, the fabrin between pockets and cups has space so in case if you need more OO you can put another pads https://d28qt14g3opchh.cloudfront.net/smileys/icon_mrgreen.gif" alt=":D" /> Straps are little to wide, but doesnt make me to feel discomfort. Straps are convertible. Theyre also thick - and I love thick straps
Gosh, thats so lovely bra, also seems like quality is not bad at all! would love it in 70F possibly
This size is estimated! The tag is totally gone. The demi style does not cover most of my tissue. there is some gappage. If I put the underwire comfortably under my breasts, my nipples are *barely* covered.
I am adding this bra for data/informational purposes only. This Bra is not owned by me at the time of addition to the database.
The band measured 21.75” to a max of 37” with 2 hooks and 3 rows of eye loops.
Cup Depth as measured by: 1 Hovering the cup between the knees, then placing the tape measure into the cups without any resistance. This measurement is: 10.75”
2 Placing the cup over the knee and stretching it similar to what a breast would, to the maximum resistance. This measurement is: 12.5”
I feel these two figures give you a general idea of ...the minimum and maximum depth that the cup can accommodate, just like the flat and stretched band measurements do with bands. Since Bratabase only has one cup field, I enter the larger of the two, as it’s this larger number that determines if a cup is going to fit me or not since I am on the max end of the cup scale, but do realize that some may need the lower number to determine fit for their needs, so I will always include both figures in the reviews for full disclosure.