Bra fitting help » Some strange fit issues, possibly uneven band tension?
Fauve » Veronique Padded Half Cup (0241) » 30FF 30:8
Issue resolved
Alterations planned, and will be executed when I have time off work
Original problem
For one, the band is too loose, and it doesn't want to stay level even on the tightest hook when it otherwise feels comfortable (photos were taken on the tightest set).
Two, my bigger boob is happy, but the cup on my smaller boob gapes at the top and the wires migrate down too low. Also, there is what appears to be some superficial fabric buckling on both cups next to the gore.
Three, the straps are at least 2 full cm farther out than my 30F - Fauve » Maya Padded Half Cup (0271) and 30F - Fauve » Marla Padded Half Cup Bra (0291) . I know those are a cup size smaller, but that is significant distance and it definitely contributes to both cups gaping when I slouch.
Four, the gore pokes my sternum, possibly when it starts riding lower? I always have gores poking into my close-set breast tissue, but I've never had a problem with poking the bone. It's not a huge deal, and I suspect it will clear up with the other issues.
I noticed that the vertical cup seams seem a little straighter than in my other half-cups, like they're not carrying the weight of the breast the same way, especially toward the gore - maybe shaping is off? Maybe it's cut a little more FOT than the others? The fabric is also incredibly stiff, which could be contributing to the weirdness.
Cross-hooking on the tightest/second tightest seems to help solve all the gaping, I think, but the band still wants to ride up and the smaller boob's cup still shifts down.
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Suggestions (3)
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helpfulThe photos look to me as if the cup is too shallow for you at the bottom on both sides, not just your smaller side. It's just that, on your bigger side, the boob is filling out the rest of the cup better so there is less wrinkling in the empty bottom of the cup, so you can't really see/feel it.
As for the band, well, if it really stretches to 34" and more without difficulty, that's why it's riding up. No fix for that except altering it. The less invasive method would be to sew a piece of taping or ribbon along the band to reduce stretch; otherwise you will have to take it in.
It doesn't seem like this is your once in a lifetime chance to get a beautiful Fauve bra as you already have a bunch of other nice ones, so maybe this one needs to be released?
Updated on September 23, 2014 Flag this
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When you say uneven tension do you mean the bottom edge of the band is looser than the top? In that case I'd first try just sewing a ribbon along the bottom. You might not need the dart.
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I believe it is, yes, probably partly due to the shape of my ribcage, but I don't think my ribs have that extreme of a funnel/cone shape, so it's made much better by cross-hooking. I have worn two other bras (not Fauves) this way and found them better.
I will try just the ribbon there then! I still have to take the hooks off to take out some length, but hopefully it will be enough.
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helpfulAll I can say is that I would be crying if I had such a beautiful bra and it almost-sorta fit! I'm not experienced enough to say what exactly is wrong.
Updated on September 23, 2014 Flag this
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I know! It is definitely one of the prettiest I have ever seen. All the fit things are so slight and should be so superficial, and I just want to love it. :/
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helpfulAt quick glance, it looks like the cups are too wide and shallow for you. And the band is too long, of course.
Updated on October 5, 2014 Flag this
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The cups are actually pretty close to the correct width. I wish the underwires had a flatter curve on the outside under my arm, but it's not uncomfortable. My breast root is very wide and curves almost all the way back to my shoulder blades, which you can kind of see in the profile shots: that pooch of flesh that looks like underarm fat is actually my breast root.
Too shallow in the bottom of the cup, though, I have to agree. So far the alterations are going pretty well, though!
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I ain't scared of alterations! I've never altered for uneven band tension before, but there's no time like the present, eh? Where do you think a dart would be best: underarm behind the little appliqué but before the strap, or in the back by the hooks? I will have to take the hook tape off anyway to get a cm or so out of both sides, but I was thinking of doing the ribbon thing anyway because I don't want to completely mess up the lovely ruched decoration along the top edge.
This one is very pretty and I do have something of an addiction, but I think it will be an educational project.