Bra fitting help » Is my gore too wide? Cup too narrow? Aaaa!
Figleaves Boudoir » Glamour Balconette Bra (FIG-AW103103) » 32FF 32:8
Issue resolved
Wrong shape for me, slightly too narrow.
Original problem
I'm not sure how to tell what bras fit me and what ones don't. When I first tried this one on, I thought it fit, but the more time I spent wearing it, I was wondering if maybe the gore was too wide for the height in my cleavage, and when I took photos, I realized that the cups' seams under my arms cut into my breast tissue -- is this still quad boob? I'm such a noob.
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Suggestions (2)
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helpful
You have more fullness on the inner quadrant of your breasts (near the gore) than this bra will allow. It's a common problem in our size range (I wear a similar size). Basically this bra wants your boobs to be further apart and less full in the center than they are.
The side sling, which is there to try to center your boobs, is working against the rest of the bra, which is pushing them east-west due to the tight squeeze for the center fullness. This is probably why you're getting that line! It could also have to do with lack of volume at the outside of the breast. I don't see a particularly wide root here, the side of the cup actually looks kind of empty--the way it will when a person' sbreast tissue is mostly on the front of the torso. Of course this doesn't mean you have a super narrow root--if the front of your ribcage is fairly wide and your boobs take up the entire width you may still need average width wires--but again I don't see wide, wide roots at all, so I would not be searching for cups that are a lot wider than this. You might even need something narrower, like 5.5" or 5.6".
Based on measurements I'd say this cup may also be a bit deep for you, in inches--but the volume isn't where you need it so you still aren't fitting into it quite right, hence quadboob and pointing down. In a cup that has enough fullness in the center you may only need 10" of depth or so, unless you are uncommonly firm or have implants.
Updated on August 20, 2014 Flag this
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It looks like we are fairly close in size and shape so I can definitely share what has worked for me. I hear you on preferring compactness over projection but unfortunately there is always a tradeoff involved when your own anatomy is fairly projected (which is the case for both of us I think). When I was a 32DD/E I used to find a perfect fit in Freya but at my current size Freya bras no longer work-- the padded styles are universally too wide and shallow, which I imagine is why your Patsy is digging into your armpit (wire is too wide and doesn't belong in your armpit!) In the unlined Freyas I either have overspill due to center fullness like you in this bra, or if I size up to get rid of the quadboob, then the cup is essentially too large and I get diminished support and a downward pointing shape.
In other words if you are after a compact shape you will have to branch out into other brands. Put simply, since our boobs do have a lot of depth and projection, that tissue has to go somewhere and if it is not allowed to "stick out" directly out front, it will either have to be spread out widthwise or vigorously smushed upwards! The Polish bra market, aka cleavageland, offers plenty of options for pushing the boobs skywards and creating a rounder shape that looks [somewhat] minimized in profile; it is also the driving principle in Panache's Cleo line, but you will have to proceed by trial and error with Cleo since their models will not all have the depth that you need.
The other option--to minimize projection by allowing the boobs to spread out widthwise--is basically the easiest route in the US bra market. Any good Nordstrom's will offer you an almost endless selection of contoured/molded cup bras (Freya, Fantasie, Chantelle, Wacoal...) which, in the correct size, will produce exactly this effect. Basically you'll be looking for bras that shape you a bit like your Deco, but with differing necklines--you'll be able to choose from balconnets and full coverage as well as plunges, which is nice for variety and to suit a range of outfits/occasions. You will also find that unlined seamless bras do a similar thing to your shape--but obviously they don't offer the same nipple coverage, not something I care about much, but I realize many people do.
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helpfulActually, looking at my main picture, it looks like the bra is trying to pull my boobs more out to the side and down -- is that a legit analysis? How would that happen anyway? I feel like every bra I try on makes my boobs look like they are east-westing and pointy.
So frustrated!!!!!Updated on August 20, 2014 Flag this
Thank you SO much!!! I can't believe how quickly you responded -- I really appreciate it. :) I've been having a majorly hard time finding bras that are comfy and that look good. Most of my tissue is on the front of my torso, actually -- you're right! And I have a hard time finding a gore that doesn't irritate my skin because of height/width. Looking back at my other bras, it looks like most of them are 5.5" width. I agree with you that the bra is too deep too...
I can't figure out what kind of bra to go for. I typically like a more compact shape than projection (which I've been getting in this bra as well as the Freya plunges/balconettes I've tried). Do you think it is because they are too deep for me, or should I just look for a different style of bra? If you have any recommendations or advice I'd really appreciate it! So far, my favorite bra I've found is the Whimsy Aruba in 32DDD (slight quad-boob, but it's so comfortable and just holds everything in so nicely!), and I also like the Freya Deco Hattie in 30FF. I have two Patsy half cups in the same size but I feel like the underwire digs into my right armpit after a couple hours. :\ Dunno why! (And nah, I'm soft.)